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In a tiny, long-gone shop in Ashland, I found a lovely copper cataplana, a pan used for making the Portuguese stew of the same name. I had to buy it, even though we were late to a play. We made it in time, but I had to sit through the entire play with the pan, in a very noisy bag, on my lap. It was worth it, though; it opened up a whole, delicious world of cataplanas for me. Inevitably, every time I make the pork and mussel cataplana from the recipe that came with the pan, I can't stop thinking of "King Lear." While some of the shops may look a bit too cute, serious cooks would be foolish to

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